Note extended exhaust pipe top right in the picture. 5HP Honda engine used for development and emissions testing. I confess, I spent several months using a 5 HP Honda engine for testing and development ( Figure 3).įigure 3. Wires are routed along the center of the floor, pull-tied to the throttle cable. This becomes the new easy-to-reach kill switch.įigure 2. When the switch is OFF, the controller is not powered, and therefore can’t drive the ground signal to the ignition coil ( Figure 2). We fabricated a sheet metal panel that mounts below the steering wheel for the switch large enough to add more goodies later. Taylor solid core ignition wire with ferrite suppressor ring and Taylor 90 degree silicon boot connecting Streetmaster PC-91E coil to spark plug.Ī 10 amp toggle switch connects the fused battery 12 volts to the controller’s red power wire. With a little WD-40, it slides right on the 8 mm wire ( Figure 1).įigure 1. (I run solid-core wires on our fuel injected ECU controlled Jeep Grand Cherokee using this trick.) For the kart, I’m using a 7.93 mm ID ferrite ring from Digi-Key. They haven’t been readily used on street vehicles since the 1970s (and then only for the aftermarket).Ī trick I learned is to put a ferrite ring around the wire, close to the coil. Solid-core ignition wires generate massive amounts of RFI. The boots and terminals are Taylor 90 degree black silicon (see the Parts List). We made a custom solid-core wire using Taylor 8 mm cut-to-fit silicon jacket wire. You could measure the distance between where you mount the coil and the spark plug and buy a pre-made ignition wire from your local auto parts store (or even salvage a used wire from a previous daily-driver tune-up). Just be aware the Dwell setting used in the software was specific to this coil, and different coils may need more (or less) dwell. Any negative ground automotive ignition coil should work, though. Jegs sells them under the ProComp PC91 label and the Streetmaster PC-91E label (the one we used). It has a rated output of 60 kV, measures 0.8 ohms primary (0.450 ohms rated), and 3.40 mH primary. The ignition coil is a dry E-cell 100:1 turns ratio version purchased from Jegs for around $25 (see the Parts List). (Other battery options would have to include a printed circuit board and battery holder costs.) You may opt for Li-Ion (or even super caps) to save weight and space on a racing kart. I had considered possibly using lithium-ion or NiMH, but went with lead-acid for cost reasons. Of course, to make them functional, you also need an ignition wire, mounting brackets, hook-up wire, connectors, a switch, fuses, nuts, bolts, brackets, and so forth.įor the battery, we chose a 12 volt 285 CCA lawn and garden lead-acid battery purchased from the local NAPA Auto Parts store for about $60 (including the core charge). There are two critical items that you must have for your project: a 12 volt battery and an automotive ignition coil. It’s up to you to make it work for your application. Instead, I want to show you what needs to be done and how we did it. Chances are none of you will be working with the same platform, so the brackets I made wouldn’t work for you. I’m working with my son’s modified Manco two-seat go-kart. Unfortunately, I can’t include blueprints, CAD drawings, or 3D printer software in the article downloads. To wrap it up, we’ll install it on my son’s Manco go-kart to see how she runs! » Skip to the Extras Bringing It All Together!Īt this point, we have a Nextion touch screen programmer and an assembled and programmed PIC ignition timing controller.
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